Taking It Easy

I haven't posted in a while and I probably won't for a while so I just wanted to give you guys a brief update.

After my highlands tour, I returned to Edinburgh for a night. Then I was in Glasgow for two days. It was good fun. I met up with my Scottish friend Lorraine that I met in Australia and we spent a nice day together. I then flew to Northern Ireland where I stayed with my friend Richard's parents in Antrim (right outside of Belfast). They were wonderful and beyond hospitable. I'm a bit under the weather at the moment so sorry for the lack of flair in this post. I'm just too tired to think at the moment. I'll be back posting soon enough though...don't you worry.

Lovely, Lovely Scotland

I arrived in Edinburgh last week and headed straight out on a hostel-organized pub crawl to experience Scotland’s infamous drinking culture. I had a blast and met a ton of people from the hostel that I ended up hanging out with all week. Events like that are always a great way to meet people especially when you’ve just arrived in a city.

I spent the next few days exploring Edinburgh’s medieval streets. I joined a tour one morning that was really informative, perhaps too informative. The guide gave a full history of Scotland and pointed out many little spots of interest in the city that ordinarily you’d walk right past. I came away knowing much more Scottish history than I’d ever known before. I visited some other sights in Edinburgh, but most I just took pictures of rather than really exploring. Prices here are absolutely ridiculous so I refuse to pay for them. They were charging 11pounds just to enter Edinburgh Castle so I stepped out of line and just took a picture. I’m sure the outside is nicer than the inside anyway.

I signed myself up for a Macbackpackers jump on/jump off tour of Scotland that I left for on Monday. I was happy to join a tour that takes you to major sights and describes them. Sometimes it can be frustrating figuring everything out on my own so I was happy to put myself into more capable hands for a few days. The first day of the tour we stopped in Pitlochry, the Battlefield of Culloden, and a few other places before I was dropped off in Inverness. I think Neil, the guide, might have had a few marbles loose but at least he was highly entertaining, and for the most part, informative, albeit in an unconventional way.

I went on a cruise on the famous Loch Ness while I was in Inverness – it was my main reason for visiting. It turned out to be a beautiful day and I sailed along the lake for three hours passing a few castles and other monuments. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your view) we had no sightings of the mysterious Loch Ness monster. I was surprised the cruise didn’t really play up the monster card. It’s not like people really come just to see the lake (there are plenty of lakes to see), they come to hear about the monster but the cruise didn’t really pay it much mention. Regardless, it was a relaxing time on the water. That night Michelle, a girl on my tour, and me went out for a drink at Hootananny’s to listen to some traditional Scottish music. I was thinking bagpipes (which in hindsight probably would have blown out our eardrums in a small venue) so I was surprised to see an informal trio seated at a table with a pint each in front of them, playing a guitar, violin, and small drum. Nevertheless, I really enjoyed listening and it was an enjoyable evening.

The next day I rejoined the tour and headed to the Isle of Skye. We were supposed to be picked up from the hostel at 3:30pm, but the guide didn’t show up until 5pm. I was already bored out of my mind and itching to leave Inverness (there isn’t much to do barring cruising the loch) so I was a bit annoyed. We made it to Skye later than expected and I set out with a few people for dinner as soon as we got there. On the way to Skye, we passed the Eilan Donan Castle, which is the most photographed castle in all of Scotland. You may recognize it from one of the Bond films. I don’t know which one, so if you know, let me know.

The following morning we left early for the Isle of Skye day tour. I’m really glad that I signed up for the day tour because it would have been impossible to explore and fully appreciate the island on my own. We stopped in a few small villages for a look around before heading to a river that supposedly imparts youth on those who bathe in it. Jo, the tour guide, had a story for each part of the tour and was bursting with information. At the river she told the story of the Amazonian women of Skye and their leader who in actuality was 265, but only looked to be in her 20’s because she bathed in the river each and every day. We all stuck our faces in as a result. I had a rosy-cheeked glow after, but only because the river was freezing. We went for an hour and a half walk after that up one of the mountains. It was a semi-strenuous walk but the views from the top were absolutely beautiful. We also visited some interesting rock formations and the Fairy Glen, where apparently the fairies of Skye hang out. It was actually a really peaceful place, and while everyone else scrambled up to the top of the glen, I stayed at the bottom and sat quietly in the sun for a while soaking up its sinking rays. It was one of my favorite moments.

On the last day, we left Skye early in the morning and headed back toward Edinburgh. We stopped at a few places along the way including the castle featured in Monty Python and the Holy Grail. I’d never seen the movie so it didn’t mean much to me, but Jo came trotting down the path after entering the castle with clapping coconuts. Even though I’d never seen the movie, I saw Spamalot so I knew she was imitating the “horsemen” so it was pretty funny. We also stopped at the William Wallace Monument in Stirling on the way back. The monument was one of the main sights I wanted to see in Scotland. As anyone who knows me knows well, Braveheart is my favorite movie so the William Wallace Monument was a must on my agenda. It’s ridiculously huge and overlooks the city of Stirling. There’s also a stone statue of Mel Gibson as Braveheart at the bottom but funnily enough, it’s caged to prevent vandalism. I guess the Scottish people aren’t too keen on Mel’s version of Wallace. Jo told us the whole history of William Wallace and how he is a hero to the Scottish people. As most people know, Braveheart isn’t really historically accurate but I was disappointed to learn that Wallace was most likely in the priesthood before he started the revolution against the English and hence did not start the war to avenge his murdered love. That’s Hollywood for you but I suppose everyone, including me, likes a good love story.

Just Say No to National Express

I spent a few days in Manchester, a place I will never return during a Man U home game. My hostel was overrun by loud, animated, and drunk-at-noon (game started at 8pm) Italians out to cause a stir after what happened at last week’s Man U vs. Roma game. I was watching an English soap opera in the TV room with two Australian girls but that was taken over by English fans eager to watch the game and criticize the players, as if they would do better on the field. I ended up watching the game, because really I had no other choice, and Man U won 7-1 disgracing Roma. It wasn’t a very eventful game though; Manchester had effectively won in the first 20 minutes, and the Italians had their asses handed to them.

I went to bed fairly early, around midnight, because I had to be up at 7:15am to take the bus to York the next day. I was rudely awaken at 4am by retardedly drunk Man U fans outside my window singing every tribute song to the players at the top of their lungs. Half of them probably didn’t even know their names at that point but could sing every corny anthem to Ronaldo and Rooney as if it were second nature. This went on for 45 minutes. I was so livid that I was tempted to scream out the window but I’ve learned from experience that telling drunk people to “shut up” only incites them to yell louder so I kept quiet and prayed for rain.

I eventually fell asleep only to be woken by two stumbling roommates as they entered he room replaying the game’s details to each other as if they hadn’t been sitting side by side watching the game. After they fell asleep, or more likely passed out, I was able to get some rest until one’s cell phone went off at regular 4-minute intervals starting at 7am. I tried to wake him at first, but to no avail, so I forcefully (I know I’m terrible) shook his shoulder but he was comatose and didn’t move. I picked up his ringing clothes and threw them away from the bed to stop the phone. I was in no mood to deal with it peacefully; what can I say, I was cranky. Besides all of that, Manchester was ok.

I made my way to the bus station the next morning and was almost refused entry because it was booked out at Leeds. The exceptionally kind bus driver told me to board anyway and see if people didn’t show. Otherwise, I would have had to get off at Leeds and take another bus to York. Luckily there were a few no-shows so I was able to stay on all the way to my destination. I was grateful the bus driver had been so accommodating – few National Express drivers are. Which brings me to my next point – I abhor National Express and buying the Brit Xplorer pass was the worst travel move I’ve ever made. I’d advise anyone against it and urge them to just buy tickets individually because it would be cheaper (I would have saved 100pounds if I did) and you’re guaranteed a seat (which I never was). The Brit Xplorer passes are huge scams and not worthwhile unless you plan on taking a bus every single day, but of course they don’t write that on the website so it sounds like a good deal.

I only had a day in York so I just walked around taking in the sights. York is a quintessential medieval English town complete with cobbled sidewalks and old-style buildings. I ventured over to the imposing York Minster, the town’s cathedral, and rather than going in (I’ve seen cathedrals before) just took a few pictures from the outside. The rest of the day I wandered aimlessly around and enjoyed the weather. That night, I went on a York Ghost Trail walk around the city. York is noted for being the most haunted city in England, and the guide took us around the town and pointed out where supposed ghosts and spirits lurk. It was actually a really entertaining tour and the guide, who was dressed in a tux with tails and a top hat, was funny and theatrical.

When I had arrived in York, I inquired about buses to Edinburgh and was informed that there was only one departure daily. I thought it best to reserve a seat rather than risk getting shut out of the bus, but when I asked the woman she told me that I was unable to reserve a seat. Apparently reservations for the Brit Xplorer pass can only be made at National Express offices, not National Express ticket agents. I was, once again, pissed at National Express. There was absolutely no way for me to reserve a seat and I had to just hope that the bus wasn’t full because she also wasn’t able to tell me how many seats were left. They really shouldn’t label their offices “tickets and information” when they don’t provide either. I was, fortunately, able to board the bus to Edinburgh the next morning without a problem, and arrived six hours later.

Home of the Beatles

I continued my London sightseeing with a day at Tate Modern, London's famous modern art museum on the South Bank. I spent a few hours wandering around the exhibits, fighting the crowds. I really enjoyed the vast amount of work on display, but it was way too packed for my taste. It's frustrating when you're trying to stand back and enjoy Dali's "Metamorphosis of Narcissus" and people's heads keep bobbing back and forth in front of you.

The next day I picked up Sam at the National Theater and we set out for Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum. When we got off the tube station on Baker Street, I could already see the line for the museum, and not just one line, but three jutting off in different directions for different purposes. We ended up on the appropriate line for those who hadn’t purchased tickets and Sam went to inquire about prices. She came back with a price list in her hand and we decided against going to Madame Tussaud’s. The admission price was 25pounds – that’s 50USD to look at some wax figures. I can do that in New York. We decided instead to check out the massive Victoria and Albert Museum, which is coincidentally free, and we spent a few hours roaming around. My favorite exhibit was that on fashion, which was initially closed, but was open to the public when we checked again before we left. Afterwards we hung out at her hotel for a bit and then headed out for a pizza dinner. It was the first real meal that I’d actually eaten since I arrived in the UK; I’d been subsisting on pot noodles and sandwiches so I enjoyed it thoroughly. I dropped Sam off at the theater for her play that night a little while later and we hugged goodbye. It was so good to see her and I can’t remember the last time that we had a whole day like that to enjoy together.

To conclude my London sightseeing, I walked all the way from Shoreditch to Leicester Square (over an hour’s walk) to see the Photographer’s Gallery. I was sorely disappointed. I really love photography and I was looking forward to the gallery, but it was tiny and only featured a handful of not-overly-impressive photos from three artists. I stayed for a bit, and headed back out into the city. It was still really early and I was bored so I found a ticket kiosk and inquired about matinees for the day. It was 1:45pm at that point, and most matinees start at 2:30pm or so, so I’d left the gallery at just the right time. I asked the cashier what she suggested out of what was available and she recommended “We Will Rock You,” the Queen and Ben Elton production at Dominion Theater so I bought a ticket on a whim. My seat was crap and in the second to last row but the whole back section of the theater was empty so I moved to the second row of the last section and actually had a really good view of the stage. At first I wasn’t too keen on the play, the set was a bit minimalist and I’m more partial to all-out productions, but I was clapping and cheering along with the rest of the crowd by the end of it. I really enjoyed it, and I was happy that I got to see a genuinely-English production, not something that I could easily see on Broadway in New York. Plus, the main characters’ voices were fantastic and I enjoy the music of Queen, so it was totally entertaining.

On my last day in London, I met up with Tracy and Jules, friends from England I had met in Australia, for dinner and drinks. I felt so bad because I was late meeting Tracy. I first had to go all the way to Victoria Station so I could reserve my seat for the bus I was taking the next day (and you all know how I feel about reserving seats). I didn’t want to get shut out of the bus though with it being Easter weekend and all. So anyway after taking a few different tubes, I finally got to the National Express office at Victoria Coach Station and was dismayed to see that there was a 20-person line. I waited though because I had no other choice – I needed to be on the bus the next day. It was one of the slowest moving lines ever with people asking the dumbest questions (I couldn’t believe half of them actually waited to inquire about buses in two weeks) but I finally made it to the front, made my reservation, and jetted back to the Underground. I finally met up with Tracy and we joined a few of her friends out at a small pub in Soho. We stayed for a bit and then moved camp to an Indian restaurant in the same area that advertised a decent happy hour. When we arrived, we found that the drinks weren’t as cheap as we had thought but decided to stay anyway. Everyone ordered the most outrageous drinks from Jamaican Mules to Cardamom and Pineapple Martinis to Passion Fruit Mojitos and passed them around for everyone to try. After the happy hour ended, we went upstairs for a fantastic Indian meal – the best I’d had in a long time. There was heaps of it, and never one to leave food on my plate, I was stuffed by the end. We found another bar after dinner for a few more drinks and then decided to call it a night soon after.

The next day I took an extremely packed bus to Liverpool. The journey was five hours anyway and we got stuck in tons of traffic so it took us an hour and a half longer to get there than expected. When I arrived in Liverpool, I asked the woman behind the counter if she could point out where my hostel was on a map and she informed me that it would only be a 10-minute or so walk. I thought that was doable so I started down the street. I met two girls with backpacks on the way who were obviously headed to the same hostel, and we arrived at the front door forty-five minutes later. Though I’d unloaded as much stuff as I could in Sam’s suitcase, my backpack stills weighs a decent amount and I was beat by the time we got there. Since the bus had been late and it was night by the time I arrived, I stayed in and enjoyed my book rather than going out.

After breakfast and a shower I set out for Albert Dock to see the Beatles Story, my main reason for visiting the city of Liverpool – Home of the Beatles. I entered the audio-guided exhibition and spent two hours learning about the history of the Beatles from start to finish. The exhibition was well executed and I learned so much information that I had never even known. If anything there was too much information between the audio guide, the memorabilia and recreations, and the written information on the walls. I was going to also go on the Magical Mystery Tour, a bus ride around Liverpool that points out major Beatles sites, but I was all Beatled-out by the time I left the exhibit so I opted out. I did however make my way over to the famed Cavern Quarter near Mathew Street to check out the Cavern Club where the Beatles used to rock out on stage and The Grapes bar where the Beatles used to hang out before and after their gigs. I really enjoyed the day and I was happy to see some kind of history that didn’t involve a cathedral.

Who Needs Sleep?

I did the requisite sightseeing around London in the Westminster area and hit up the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, St. Margaret’s Church, and Buckingham Palace. I was going to go into the Houses of Parliament but the wait was way too long so I just took a few pictures from the outside. I was able to enter Westminster Abbey for free because it was during a service, and I went in through a separate entrance. I was only allowed to view a part of the cathedral but I was able to get the jist of it – altar, pews, stained glass windows, etc. I took a few pictures of the palace also, which doesn’t open to the public except for in August and September for certain areas. The flag was flying high, which meant the queen was actually present in the palace but I didn’t get a glimpse of her. I’d been emailing back and forth with Tracy, a friend from England I met in Australia, and we met up for coffee after. It was fun to see her again and chat with someone familiar for a while.

I left for Oxford the next day and I was so happy to get out of my hostel in London. The room I was in was tiny with six of us crammed in there. There wasn’t even enough space for two people to stand and talk between the beds. My roommates were also crazy. It was like they went on the street and found the strangest people they could and asked them, “Would you like to be Jenn’s roommate?” One girl from Spain non-stop talked to me and asked me 10 million questions about America. I barely ever had my jacket off before she’d unleash a barrage of questions. She even asked me if I could get her a job at the bar I used to work at and yes, she was serious. She also advised me to find a husband as soon as I could so I could stop working and let him support me. Was she from the 1950’s? I felt bad for her because she was really sick at the time – like 19th century consumption sick with red rings around her eyes and sallow, sweaty skin – but I tried to avoid her as much as possible because I didn’t want to catch anything or answer any more questions. My room was also above a bar that blasted music that shook the floor and a busy southeast London street was right outside my window. Needless to say, the hostel wasn’t very conducive to sleep. I’d barely slept over the past week because before that my roommate in Brighton was a hardcore Mac truck snorer. Trying to sleep was futile once he came home. I’ve never met anyone who snored on the breath in and the breath out, and who snored whether they were laying on their back or side. It was unreal.

I had a fit when I went to get the bus times to Oxford. I had bought a Brit Xplorer pass for 219pounds so I could hop on any National Express bus to virtually anywhere – apparently anywhere but Oxford, one of the biggest tourist destinations in England. I had to fork over another 13pounds just for a one-way ticket to Oxford. I would have just said, “Forget it” but I had already booked my hostel in Oxford and it was too late to cancel. I was so mad. You’d think National Express could work some deal going to Oxford that’s covered by the Xplorer pass. 219pounds isn’t pocket change, and I should be able to go anywhere in England. Just to make sure, I checked my other probable destinations to see if National Express runs services – looks like I’m not going to Windsor anymore.

I spent the day ambling around the town of Oxford taking in the quaint nature of the town. It wasn’t a terribly exciting day, but it was an exhausting night. I was staying in a dorm with 15 people and I ended up with the bed next to the door. People were constantly walking in and out so it was hard to sleep. After a bit of dozing, I woke up to the sound of someone peeing. Yup, one of my totally drunken roommates decided he was above going to the bathroom and just peed in the middle of the floor of the dorm. He actually peed on my other roommate’s boots – she was furious. I would’ve been as well.

The next day, totally exhausted, I headed to Bath. I was going to take a nap before heading out for some sightseeing, but I thought if I did that I might never make it out so I went to check out the famous Roman Baths and took a guided tour around the area. The baths were actually really interesting and what’s fascinating is that they still work how the Romans intended, which really testifies to their architectural genius. That night I went to bed early, before any of my roommates came home, and I finally got a full night’s sleep.

National Express’s other little ploy is to charge 1.50pounds to make a reservation on a bus. I think paying 219pounds should be enough to warrant a reserved seat, but apparently not. I refuse to pay any extra money so usually I just show up for buses, running the risk of being shut out, which happened in Bath. I showed up to take the 10am bus back to London, but the whole bus was booked out by school groups, and I had to wait to take the 12pm bus, which thankfully had plenty of open seats.

I made it back to London, went to the hostel I’d been staying at to pick up my luggage, and then made my way to Shoreditch where I’m staying with a friend of a friend for a few days. It’s really nice to be staying in someone’s apartment and not in a hostel for a change. I can actually sleep without people snoring and climbing over me on their way into the room.

I met Sam, who is in London on a school trip, on Sunday. I was late meeting her because I got lost on the way to the subway, and I had underestimated the time it would take to get to her hotel. It took me over an hour because I got off a stop early on the tube because I wasn’t sure where the hotel was and I ended up going to the wrong Holiday Inn. But I got there, and Sam and I spent a little time catching up. No matter how much time passes between seeing family and friends, once you do see each other again, it’s like there never was any time in between. I felt like I had just seen her yesterday.